Retinol; the super-hero ingredient of skin care

 

Retinol is a  synthetic derivative of vitamin A. The synthetically derived form of vitamin A is available and formulated into several different topical applications such as creams and lotions. Halied as the holy grail of skincare ingredients and more often referred to as the ‘superhero’ ingredient of any skincare cocktail, this ingredient delivers phenomenal results in anti-aging, anti-acne and anti-pigmentation effects on the skin. 

Vitamin A is an anti-oxidant. Antioxidants are imperative in any skincare formulations this is because they scavenge free radicals which are formed on the surface of the skin as a result of oxidative damage. Oxidative damage and stress can can be inflicted onto the skin surface by environmental aggressors, pollutants, and any other extrinsic source.

This damage affects the skin cell surface by causing premature aging, pigmentation, fine lines, surface creasing, and wrinkles and accelerated aging of the skin.

By applying an antioxidant to the surface of the skin this prevents the damage and can in many cases repair existing damage as well as strengthening the skin barrier, healing the skin and treating fine lines and wrinkles having an overall anti-aging effect.

Retinol can also inhibit the action of melanogenesis which is the formation of melanin and pigment under the skin cell surface therefore it is highly effective in the treatment of pigmentation, sun spots and other signs of photo-damage otherwise known as photoaging. It can also draw out sebum and oil from blocked and congested pores within the skin surface and is therefore particularly effective in the treatment and management of acne as well.

Some facts about retinol

Retinol products

There are many different retinol products available available on the market.

Some are available over-the-counter to purchase from high street chemists and shops and others available as medical-grade and prescription only.

There is a difference in the formulation and therefore the strength and potency of different ingredients within different retinol formulations dependent on where they are purchased or acquired from.

In general, medical-grade prescription retinol formulations will be significantly more stronger and potent and capable of greater penetration with the dermal skin cell layers than those which are purchased over-the-counter. 

How to apply retinol

What many patients don’t realise is that retinol is not used like other conventional skincare products. When introducing retinol into a skincare protocol there is a greater degree of caution which needs to be exercised. It should be introduced slowly and it is generally advised to use the product once or twice a week to begin with in a pea sized amount and application at night time is generally recommended. Delicate areas of skin around the eyes, the decolletage and the lips should be avoided for application of the retinol product.

As your skin gradually builds up tolerance to the product the frequency of application can be increased from two times to three times and more during the week, eventually building up to daily.

Your skincare practitioner or dermatologist will always advise you carefully of this when first initiating you on this ingredient. 

Layering of retinol

More often than not the molecular weight of the  retinol skin care product will be greater than other products in your skin care protocol. For this  reason it is recommended to apply the retinol last in your skincare protocol after all the other products have been applied. Many patients also report that they prefer to use a barrier cream after the retinol to lock in moisture into the skin. It’s generally recommended to maintain an interval of at least 20 minutes after applying the retinol and before applying a barrier cream to ensure that the barrier cream doesn’t dilute the retinol ingredient. Also ensure that the barrier cream that you select is non-comodogenic, I advise for simple barrier creams the cera-ve or La Roche posay range as suitable, these are dermatologically tested. ZO Skin Health moisturising hydrating cream is also very good for sealing in and locking moisture within the skins surface and very good for barrier repair and hydration post-retinol application. 

Again advice can be sought by your dermatologist on the instructions for the retinol which is being prescribed and initiated for you and the most appropriate barrier cream.

Side side effects to with retinol

There is a common misconception that retinol will cause blistering, redness, soreness and peeling of your skin from the moment it is applied. The reason for this is because there have been widely reported  incidents by patients of this happening immediately after use however this would have happened with patients who have been started on this ingredient and who have not been councelled or educated properly on how to use it appropriately to avoid this. This can also be as a result of patients purchasing the products themselves with no prior knowledge or instruction on product selection or how to use the product appropriately. 

Although side-effects can occur with retinol which include redness and soreness and dryness of the skin these can all be minimised or avoided if the retinol ingredient is introduced properly and affectively into the skincare protocol. By following specific instructions such as using it slowly, increasing the dose appropriately and at recommended intervals so that your skin builds up tolerance and also using another barrier cream to hydrate and lock in moisture after the retinol, adverse effects can be avoided.

How long will it take for me to see results from retinol?

It can realistically take several weeks for the retinol to penetrate the skin cell layers and take effect at a molecular level to up-regulate and proliferate fibroblast level and the collagen and elastin levels and regulate oil production and sebum levels aswell as controlling pigmentation and the effect on melanogenesis. The results are not instant overnight although patients report  changes in skin structure at surface level and visible improvement in pore health much sooner in some cases. However, the best results are always achieved several weeks, if not months into using the retinol.

Which product do I start?

Retinol comes in a number of different strengths. The potency of the formulation is dependent on the grade of the product whether this is over-the-counter or medical-grade. In general the lowest strength products start at approximately 0.25% which gradually work up to 0.5% and at the highest strength can be 1%. It is always advised to start on the lowest strength possible and then gradually increase this to the highest strength. Adverse effects can occur if the patient initiates a retinol at the highest strength without gradually building a skin cell tolerance before with the lower strengths. 

What are the after care instruction of using a retinol?

Sunscreen must be applied at all times. It is generally recommended to apply SPF 50. This should be applied even during the winter months as well i.e twelve months a year and this is because the UVA and UVB rays are just as strong and prominent in the winter as they are in the summer.

Application of the retinol does sensitise the skin barrier to the effects of radiation aswell and UVA, UVB and HEV rays, application of sunscreen is imperative otherwise these rays are capable of inducing oxidative damage and stress to the skin surface and exacerbating adverse effects of the retinol which can include extreme dryness, peeling, redness and sunburn-like effects on the skin surface.

If you are using a skincare protocol which contains other skin active ingredients it is important to have a thorough knowledge of which skin-pairs can go together and which products cannot go together. For example, if you are using a skincare product which contains vitamin C to treat pigmentation alongside the retinol product within your skincare protocol, this should not be applied at the same time as retinol because one ingredient can counter-balance the effect of the other and negate the effect altogether of each respective one. With this particular pair I generally advised to use the vitamin C in the morning as part of your skincare and retinol at night.

If you are using retinol and skincare products which contain alpha- beta-hydroxy acids these can be quite strong on the skin cell surface and in combination with a skincare product like retinol it can prove a little bit too aggressive for some patients . Therefore, if you are using a toner product or any other product like an exfoliating face wash which contains alpha- or beta- hydroxy acids I  recommend to use the retinol at night time and avoid application of the alpha-and beta-hydroxy acids at the same time and reserve these for use in the morning, using more gentler products at the same time of the day as retinol to minimise adverse effects. Typical examples of the latter could include glycolic acid which is an alpha-hydroxy acid in a face wash or face toner product or salicylic acid which is a beta-hydroxy acid commonly used to treat acne in skincare formulations like toning pads from ZO Skin Health which contain 2% salicylic acid or other face washes and toners available as medical-grade or over the counter.  

Can everybody use retinol?

Retinol is not advised for use if you have broken, irritated or sensitive skin. 

It cannot be used if you are pregnant or breast feeding.

It is always best to seek advice from a qualified dermatologist before starting your skincare product or a retinol.